三九養(yǎng)生堂記者 鄧肯·蓋伊 報(bào)道
精彩| 紅??(hong)薯??(shu)、芋??(yu)頭??(tou)、栗??(li)子??(zi)、蘿??(luo)卜??(bu)等??(deng)富??(fu)含??(han)淀??(dian)粉??(fen)的??(de)蔬??(shu)果??(guo)在??(zai)御??(yu)寒?(han)時(shí)??(shi)也??(ye)積??(ji)攢??(zan)下??(xia)足??(zu)夠??(gou)的??(de)甘??(gan)甜??(tian)??。??霜??(shuang)降??(jiang)前??(qian)后??(hou)適??(shi)宜??(yi)收??(shou)獲??(huo)食??(shi)用??(yong)紅??(hong)薯??(shu)和??(he)芋??(yu)頭??(tou)??。農(nóng)??(nong)諺??(yan)曰??(yue)“寒??(han)露??(lu)早??(zao)??，立??(li)冬??(dong)遲??(chi)??，霜?(shuang)降??(jiang)收??(shou)薯??(shu)正??(zheng)適??(shi)宜??(yi)”??。清??(qing)時(shí)?(shi)??，嶺??(ling)南??(nan)有??(you)霜??(shuang)降??(jiang)“打??(da)芋??(yu)煲??(bao)”的??(de)飲??(yin)食??(shi)習(xí)??(xi)俗??(su)??，孩??(hai)童??(tong)撿??(jian)拾??(shi)瓦??(wa)片??(pian)砌??(qi)成??(cheng)中??(zhong)空??(kong)寶??(bao)塔??(ta)??，從??(cong)內(nèi)??(nei)部??(bu)點(diǎn)??(dian)燃??(ran)??，燒??(shao)紅??(hong)后??(hou)毀??(hui)塔??(ta)煨??(wei)芋??(yu)而??(er)食??(shi)之??(zhi)??。栗??(li)子??(zi)是??(shi)霜??(shuang)降??(jiang)進(jìn)?(jin)補(bǔ)??(bu)的??(de)佳??(jia)品??(pin)??，南??(nan)宋??(song)詩(shī)??(shi)人??(ren)陸??(lu)游??(you)深??(shen)諳??(an)其??(qi)中??(zhong)三?(san)味??(wei)??，留??(liu)下??(xia)了??(le)不??(bu)少??(shao)贊??(zan)美??(mei)的??(de)詩(shī)??(shi)篇??(pian)??。然??(ran)而??(er)最??(zui)觸??(chu)動(dòng)??(dong)人??(ren)的??(de)??，還??(hai)是?(shi)他??(ta)晚??(wan)年?(nian)所??(suo)作??(zuo)《夜??(ye)食??(shi)炒??(chao)栗??(li)有??(you)感??(gan)》??，以?(yi)及??(ji)《老??(lao)學(xué)??(xue)庵??(an)筆??(bi)記??(ji)》中??(zhong)炒??(chao)栗??(li)高??(gao)手??(shou)李??(li)和??(he)的??(de)故??(gu)事??(shi)??。熱??(re)氣??(qi)騰??(teng)騰??(teng)的??(de)炒??(chao)栗??(li)不??(bu)但??(dan)鉤??(gou)動(dòng)??(dong)陸??(lu)游??(you)的?(de)年??(nian)華?(hua)如??(ru)夢(mèng)??(meng)感??(gan)??，更??(geng)寄??(ji)托??(tuo)了??(le)他??(ta)對(duì)??(dui)于??(yu)祖?(zu)國(guó)??(guo)山??(shan)河??(he)一??(yi)統(tǒng)??(tong)的??(de)拳??(quan)拳??(quan)之??(zhi)思??(si)??。 北??(bei)京??(jing)自??(zi)古?(gu)是?(shi)多??(duo)元??(yuan)文?(wen)化??(hua)交?(jiao)融??(rong)的??(de)要??(yao)沖?(chong)??，游??(you)牧??(mu)民??(min)族??(zu)的??(de)飲??(yin)食?(shi)習(xí)??(xi)慣??(guan)與??(yu)中??(zhong)原??(yuan)節(jié)??(jie)日??(ri)交??(jiao)流??(liu)融?(rong)合??(he)??，形??(xing)成??(cheng)了??(le)北??(bei)京??(jing)人??(ren)重??(zhong)陽(yáng)??(yang)節(jié)??(jie)登??(deng)高??(gao)吃??(chi)烤??(kao)肉??(rou)的??(de)獨(dú)??(du)特?(te)節(jié)?(jie)俗??(su)??。??《燕??(yan)京??(jing)歲??(sui)時(shí)??(shi)記??(ji)》中??(zhong)??，京??(jing)師??(shi)流??(liu)行??(xing)九??(jiu)月??(yue)初??(chu)九??(jiu)到?(dao)西??(xi)山??(shan)、薊??(ji)門??(men)煙??(yan)樹??(shu)、陶??(tao)然??(ran)亭??(ting)等?(deng)風(fēng)?(feng)景??(jing)宜??(yi)人??(ren)的??(de)城??(cheng)郊??(jiao)烤??(kao)肉??(rou)并??(bing)賦??(fu)詩(shī)??(shi)飲?(yin)酒??(jiu)??。據(jù)??(ju)民??(min)國(guó)??(guo)親??(qin)歷??(li)者??(zhe)回??(hui)憶??(yi)??，烤??(kao)肉??(rou)需??(xu)要??(yao)攜??(xie)帶??(dai)專??(zhuan)門??(men)的??(de)鐵??(tie)炙??(zhi)子??(zi)、肉??(rou)和??(he)佐?(zuo)料??(liao)??，游??(you)人??(ren)在??(zai)野??(ye)外??(wai)挖??(wa)坑??(keng)架??(jia)起??(qi)炙??(zhi)子??(zi)??，燃??(ran)料??(liao)就??(jiu)地??(di)取??(qu)材??(cai)??，多??(duo)是??(shi)撿??(jian)拾??(shi)來(lái)??(lai)的??(de)松??(song)枝??(zhi)松??(song)塔??(ta)??。待??(dai)松??(song)煙??(yan)彌??(mi)漫??(man)??，肉??(rou)香??(xiang)撲??(pu)鼻??(bi)之??(zhi)時(shí)??(shi)??，就??(jiu)著??(zhe)海??(hai)淀?(dian)名??(ming)酒??(jiu)“蓮??(lian)花??(hua)白??(bai)”割??(ge)腥??(xing)啖??(dan)膻??(shan)??，起??(qi)身?(shen)游??(you)目??(mu)騁??(cheng)懷??(huai)??，看??(kan)蘆??(lu)花??(hua)滿??(man)塘??(tang)、鴉??(ya)棲??(qi)老??(lao)樹??(shu)??，又??(you)能??(neng)登??(deng)臨??(lin)送??(song)目??(mu)??，懷??(huai)古??(gu)憑??(ping)吊??(diao)??，誠(chéng)?(cheng)為??(wei)重??(zhong)陽(yáng)??(yang)之?(zhi)快??(kuai)事?(shi)??。
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責(zé)編：楊之光
審核：吉尼
責(zé)編：呂程平
